BERLIN, GERMANY – DECEMBER 22. (Photo by Sean Gallup/Getty Images)
In the pursuit of performance, the fashion industry has quietly adopted a class of synthetic chemicals that offer stain resistance, water repellency, and durability. However, the price may be higher than advertised.
Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, collectively known as PFAS, are increasingly found in clothing, from yoga leggings to hiking jackets and activewear. Referred to as “forever chemicals” because they do not naturally break down, PFAS persist in our environment and bodies, raising urgent questions about their long-term effect on human and planetary health and safety.
A Glimpse Into PFAS In Clothing
Initially developed in the mid-20th century, PFAS are now ubiquitous in consumer goods, including personal care products, nonstick cookware, food packaging, and water-resistant fabrics. In the apparel industry, they are often applied as coatings to make clothes repel water, oil, and dirt, which is convenient for outdoor gear and athletic wear, but at an environmentally hidden expense.
According to a 2022 report by Toxic-Free Future, 72% of products labeled as water- or stain-resistant contained detectable levels of PFAS. These findings align with independent studies, such as one published in Environmental Science & Technology Letters, which found PFAS in multiple mainstream apparel brands, including some marketed as “green” or “eco-conscious.”
On PFAS Exposure
While PFAS are not absorbed through the skin as easily as they are ingested, research suggests that chronic, low-level exposure from clothing still contributes to a person’s overall toxic burden. This is because PFAS can break down over time, entering the air as dust, lingering on the skin, and washing into water systems, where they accumulate in the environment and human tissue. Here’s what the science shows:
Endocrine Disruption
- PFAS are known endocrine disruptors that interfere with hormone function. A 2023study
Immune System Suppression
- The U.S. National Toxicology Program reports that PFAS suppress immune function, particularly the body’s ability to mount antibody responses. Some studies
Increased Cancer Risk
- The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies PFOA as conceivablycarcinogenic to humans
Metabolic and Cardiovascular Effects
- Several cohort studies
Reproductive and Developmental Toxicity
- PFAS cross the placenta and have been detected in breast milk. Prenatal exposure has been associated with lower birth weights, altered neurodevelopment, and hormonal disruption in infancy, among others. The CDC and EPA now list PFAS among chemicals of concern for reproductive health.
This growing body of evidence has prompted researchers to frame PFAS exposure not as an isolated risk but as a chronic environmental stressor that interacts with other economic and sociocultural issues, including diet, air pollution, and systemic health issues.
Legislative Momentum and Industry Pushback
As scientific awareness grows, so does public pressure. U.S. states like California and New York are leading the way by implementing bans on intentionally added PFAS in textiles, beginning with outerwear and expanding into broader apparel categories. The European Union is considering a comprehensive ban on PFAS in all consumer goods under its REACH regulatory framework.
Still, industry resistance persists. Many apparel brands cite durability and supply chain complexity as reasons for the slow adoption of sustainable practices. Despite the highly complex nature of this worldwide topic, alternatives exist, including wax-based coatings, bio-based repellents, and PFAS-free membranes.
What Consumers Can Do Right Now
While systemic change is paramount, informed consumer choices remain a powerful force. Here’s how to reduce PFAS exposure through your wardrobe:
- Be Label-Aware: Products labeled “water-resistant,” “stain-repellent,” or “performance-treated” may contain PFAS unless explicitly stated otherwise.
- Do Your Research: Look for brands committed to PFAS-free manufacturing. Certifications like OEKO-TEX® or Bluesign® may indicate cleaner supply chains, though not all guarantee PFAS-free fabrics.
- Air More: Frequent laundering of performance wear can accelerate the shedding of chemicals. When possible, air garments out between wears.
- Stay Informed: Learn about advocacy efforts for transparency in labeling and stricter chemical safety regulations in consumer textiles, enabling you to make more informed decisions about your apparel and lifestyle purchases.
Performance Isn’t Supposed To Come at A Toxic Cost
The comfort of stain-free leggings or rainproof jackets might not be worth the cost to our long-term human and planetary health. As consumers, scientists, and changemakers start to challenge the invisible risks woven into our clothes, the fashion industry faces a crucial inflection point: choose short-term performance or long-term responsibility.
Certainly, what we wear is about expression, but also exposure and a more profound commitment to our overall well-being.
