Cognac: A Timeless Spirit with a Modern Twist
Stepping into the ancient cellars of the Château de Cognac is like stepping back in time. This historic structure, which dates back to the 10th century, exudes a sense of timeless elegance. Originally built as a fortress overlooking the Charente River in southwest France, the chateau is now home to the esteemed Cognac producers Baron Otard and D’Ussé. The cellars, with their arched ceilings and rows of weathered barrels, seem to exist outside of time itself.
While Cognac has a rich history that stretches back centuries, the spirit is constantly evolving. In 2023, Fawn Weaver, the founder of Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey, acquired Domaine Saint Martin in Grande Champagne, making it one of the few Black-owned Cognac producers. This acquisition is a testament to the region’s ongoing transformation and innovation.
Cognac is renowned as one of the world’s most famous brandies. It is a meticulously regulated spirit, distilled twice in copper pots from wine made predominantly from Ugni Blanc grapes. While other grape varieties are permitted, Ugni Blanc reigns supreme for its ability to maintain freshness throughout the fermentation and distillation process. Cognac is divided into six specific crus, each with its own unique terroir and microclimate that influence the grapes grown there.
The art of blending is central to the production of Cognac. Master blenders carefully combine eaux-de-vie from different estates, ages, and crus to create a harmonious and complex spirit. The aging process also plays a crucial role in shaping the final product. Cognacs can be aged in both dry and humid cellars, each imparting distinct characteristics to the liquid inside.
When it comes to labeling, the letters on Cognac bottles denote the age of the youngest spirit in the blend. For example, VS (Very Special) indicates a minimum age of two years, VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) is at least four years old, and XO (Extra Old) must be aged for a minimum of 10 years. However, it’s essential to remember that older does not always mean better. Both younger and older expressions of Cognac can offer exceptional quality, so it’s worth exploring a variety of producers and styles.
To help you navigate the world of Cognac, here are seven standout choices:
D’Ussé VSOP ($50): This silky Cognac boasts notes of clove, carob, golden raisin, and caramel-coated coffee beans, making it ideal for sipping neat or as a base for cocktails.
Hardy Legend 1863 ($70): A blend of Cognacs up to 12 years old, this expression features flavors of orange marmalade, caramelized white peach, vanilla-spiced French toast, and mocha.
Bisquit & Dubouché VSOP ($73): This subtle VSOP offers a delightful mix of stone fruit, woody spices, incense, and honey, with a lingering hint of jasmine on the finish.
Martingale Cognac ($120): Vibrant and floral, this expression showcases baked apple and fresh caramel notes, representing the Thomas family’s first release under their own brand.
Rémy Martin Tercet Cognac Fine Champagne ($130): With flavors of chocolate, cinnamon, quince paste, ripe peach, and grilled pineapple, this Cognac offers a rich and evolving tasting experience.
Cognac Frapin Cigar Blend XO Premier Cru de Cognac Grande Champagne ($133): Made from estate-grown grapes aged in humid cellars, this XO Cognac features sweet notes of cooked honey, baked apples, dried apricots, peppermint, and cedar.
Grand Marnier Révélation Grande Cuvée ($700): A luxurious cuvée made with Cognac exclusively from the Grande Champagne subregion, aged for at least 14 years. This ambrosial liqueur offers a decadent blend of chocolate-dipped orange peels, cigar tobacco, dried yellow plums, and honey, creating a truly remarkable drinking experience.
