Armenia has a long and rich history of winemaking, with vines that are centuries old still producing grapes for wine. Kristina Margaryan, head of research at the Molecular Biology Institute of Armenia, has been cataloging lost and endangered indigenous grape varieties in the Vayots Dzor region for the past decade. Through interviews with farmers and records from local municipalities and churches, Margaryan has identified about 3,000 genotypes, with 300 considered distinct varieties. Working with the Julius Kuhn Institute in Germany, the group aims to preserve and study these ancient grape varieties.
When Armenia became part of the Soviet Union in 1922, winemaking shifted to collective farming, with grapes primarily used for brandy and dessert wine production. However, some older vineyards, particularly those at higher elevations, were left uncultivated. This decision ultimately preserved these vineyards for future generations who would later revive the wine industry in the independent Republic of Armenia.
One of the projects spearheading this revival is the Trinity Canyon Vineyards, where winemakers Artem Parseghyan and Gomidas Merjanian have been experimenting with ancient grape varieties since 2016. They discovered a 120-year-old vineyard at a high elevation of almost 5,000 feet above sea level, showcasing the unique terroir of the region. Parseghyan and Merjanian have created their own wines, Dzon and Hazarvaz, to pay tribute to Armenia’s winemaking traditions and heritage.
Another notable project is Krya Wines, founded by Tatevik Gabrielyan and Jean Paul Berger in Vernashen, Armenia. Despite challenges in acquiring vineyards with multiple owners, the couple managed to restore a vineyard with 55 to 75-year-old vines, producing red Areni Noir and indigenous white grape varieties. Their wines highlight the region’s heritage and unique flavors, drawing from the ancient vines that have been preserved.
In Yerevan, Armenia’s capital city, Norqi Keghar Winery stands as one of the few remaining cellars from the 19th century. Founded in 1877, the winery was revived by Hovhannes Derdzakyan’s grandchildren in 2019, using the remaining old vines and harvesting grapes from various regions. This initiative aims to breathe new life into Armenia’s winemaking history and showcase the diverse flavors of the region.
Overall, these projects highlight Armenia’s rich winemaking heritage and the efforts to preserve ancient grape varieties, reviving the country’s wine industry for future generations to enjoy. Armenia, a country with a rich history and culture, has always had a deep connection to winemaking. For centuries, winemaking has been a way of life for the ancestors of the Armenian people. However, despite this long tradition, Armenian wines have never quite reached the same level of recognition and prestige as those from countries like France. But a new project is aiming to change that and put Armenian wines on the map.
One such winery leading the charge is Norqi Keghar Winery, which is dedicated to preserving the ancient winemaking techniques of Armenia. The winery produces a unique wine called Khachabash, made from grapes grown on vines that are over a century old. These grapes are carefully harvested and fermented in 150-year-old clay amphoras, creating a wine that is truly a testament to Armenia’s winemaking heritage.
In addition to their own vineyards, Norqi Keghar Winery recently acquired a neighboring winery that was built in 1881. This expansion allows them to further explore and experiment with different grape varieties and winemaking techniques, while still staying true to their commitment to preserving Armenia’s winemaking traditions.
While the market for Armenian wines made from ancient vines is currently mainly domestic, there are efforts to increase international awareness and distribution. Norqi Keghar Winery exports a small quantity of their wines to countries like France and Russia, with plans to expand to Brazil in the future. Other Armenian wineries, such as Krya Wines, have also made inroads into markets in Russia and Estonia.
For wine enthusiasts looking to explore new and unique wine regions, Armenia is quickly becoming a must-visit destination. With its ancient winemaking traditions, diverse grape varieties, and passionate winemakers, Armenia offers a truly unique and exciting wine experience. So next time you’re planning a wine tasting trip, consider adding Armenia to your list of destinations to explore the rich history and flavors of Armenian wines.